​“Get out of the cities;” you hear the mantra commonly in the prepper community, but what can those who are unable to leave do to help survive urban turmoil? Many prepper and survivalist experts give up suburbia as lost, focusing on rural communities where the idea of “dense” housing is two-acre lots. Not all of us can take the best solution of relocating to a politically friendly rural area and live on a self-sufficient property away from the trouble. Even rural residents might find themselves facing a problem they didn’t anticipate.
2020 was the year that rioters entered neighborhoods. We were fortunate that they were there mainly to annoy people but in SHTF these groups will likely be there to plunder…or worse. For the first time, many of us had to consider “How does a suburbanite with a little bit of tactical interest or experience organize a defense?” A lot of the advice out there seems to over-estimate the reader’s ability and use a one-size fits all strategy of “shoot everyone;” not the kind of thing everyone will find helpful.
 You can survive a grid-up situation by relying on yourself and your neighbors in the absence of law and order. Suburban Defense: A cop’s guide to protecting your home and neighborhood during riots, civil war, or SHTF by Don Shift is your guide. Large, hostile groups—from rioters to raiders—don’t need to be a death sentence. This guide is aimed towards those of us trapped in suburbia and provides many less-lethal methods of defense.
This is not a general survival manual. It is not a tactical shooting, room clearing, SWAT team and military tactics for the civilian book. It doesn’t try and teach your how to be a guerilla, sell you on the need for “prepping,” or setting up your bugout bag. No, it gets right into the nitty-gritty of what you need to do, and can do, to keep your slice of civilization safe with the means and tools at your disposal.
And just what does the “nitty-gritty” consist of?
 

• Creating a multi-layered defense structure like an onion and how to harden the neighborhood perimeter including what common traffic control items can be repurposed.
• The psychology of riots; how you can adapt police tactics to your situation, and what kind of commercially available riot control equipment you can use. Did you know that the paintball/airsoft community sells flashbang grenades or you can trick a crowd into thinking they’ve been tear gassed?
• True bullet-resistant cover is not common in typical residential landscaping but you can use concealment to your advantage. Did you know the bullet resistance of the typical suburban home is low, but so is the chance of being shot? You can also easily increase the survival chances for your family should a gunfight break out.
• Since most people tend to live in a bubble, how to organize your neighbors when the wolf is at the door and they are suddenly interested in survival.
• A realistic look at the legalities of self-defense and use of force, including what is appropriate in semi-normal times versus SHTF.
• How to harden your home, but going beyond the normal tips of getting better locks or putting bars on the window. Learn to create psychological barriers to denying easy access and keep people from approaching your house in the first place.
• What you need to take into consideration when fighting inside a modern American suburb, including dealing with snipers, fields of fire to prevent or minimize friendly civilian casualties, and how to deal with a mob overrunning your defense.
• How you can use drones to your advantage and how they might be used against you.
• Characterization of critical events with examples of both how the chaos unfolded and how citizens can respond. Guides to defense preparation, defensive tactics to take, and pre-emptive measures for each category of critical event.

 
This book puts a lot of military or law enforcement tactics and techniques within reach of the people who haven’t been in uniform. Persons with average tactical awareness can easily adapt and employ the advice in this book. Even those who don’t expect to actively engage in a fight can learn how to better prepare their home and organize the neighbors who can be defenders.
Suburban Defense is for:

• Folks who suddenly woke up one morning and realized they have to be their own security force;
• People who bought guns and ammo for self-defense but have no clue about tactical stuff;
• People with tactical training and experience but haven’t thought about how to secure a neighborhood during civil unrest; or,

• Cops, soldiers, and “sheepdog” civilians who need help figuring out how to protect their neighborhood in a situation that isn’t guerilla warfare.

 
Suburban Defense: A cop’s guide to protecting your home and neighborhood during riots, civil war, or SHTF is available on Amazon.

It’s 3 AM on a freezing cold morning. For the second time this week, a skinny teenager is trying to cut through the fence that closes off the end of your residential street. You could kill him, but that might upset the refugees he lives among in the regional park. You raise a shotgun and fire a rubber slug.. He falls and rolls to his side before jumping up and running away, clutching his belly. Back in a tent next to the playground, his mother says “You’re lucky they only used a rubber bullet.”
​
This scenario illustrates a conundrum that the SHTF survivor will have to face; balance of force. Under the circumstances, an intruder might well be justifiably shot trying to penetrate a perimeter. Yet in this case, there is a risk of a riot from his fellow refugees who might find it overkill. Neighbors might disagree with the harshness of lethal force. Having a less-lethal option to discourage and deter bad guys is prudent.
 
Less-lethal impact munitions 
Impact munitions (less-lethal ones) can be thought of remotely delivering a staggering blow to a person using a firearm or launcher. These projectiles are intended to cause pain through blunt force trauma to elicit compliance. Injuries typically include bruises, welts, and lacerations. Of these, the most common injuries are bruising and abrasions, though they may be severe, followed by lacerations. Penetration is uncommon.

Less-lethal is the preferred term (over “non-lethal” and “less-than-lethal”) because these weapons can cause death in extreme cases.[1] Some rounds may penetrate the skin, hit vital areas, and can cause serious injuries. They can penetrate clothing and damage commonly carried objects. Headshots that don’t penetrate can still cause concussions and traumatic brain injuries (TBIs).

One legal note; usage of less-lethal impact munitions in ordinary times is not recommended for civilian use. Using a firearm, even if it has an orange stock and is pumping out bean bags, is still a firearm. The projectile is less-lethal, not non-lethal, and firearms are still firearms capable of inflicting death and firing lethal ammunition.

Usage these days could be construed as assault with a deadly weapon to murder in the off-chance someone is killed. The items discussed here are generally only for post-SHTF employment. All the factors used when firing a lethal shot are involved when firing a less-lethal one, from trigger discipline to legal justification.
 
A variety of less-lethal impact munitions are available for use. This includes:

• Rubber or plastic bullets loaded into standard firearm cartridges (usually with low powder charges);
• 37/40mm foam and rubber baton rounds;
• Specialty rounds for “Can Cannon” launchers (not intended for defensive use); and,
• 12 gauge bean bags, rubber slugs, and other plastic projectiles including rubber or plastic shot.

 
37/40mm impact rounds and projectiles are not illegal, however, manufacturers and retailers typically only sell such products to law enforcement. Empty shells are often sold freely to civilian launcher owners to build or reload their own cartridges. Attempting to create one’s own less-lethal projectile for these (or any) weapons should be left to owners who are experienced reloaders in dire end-of-the-world emergencies only.
37/40mm launchers should only be used in defensive roles by trained and experienced owners. Training rounds (chalk rounds) should not be employed against persons. True NFA regulated 40mm grenade launcher owners may be able to more easily purchase controlled specialty ammo. Such owners should take additional training or seek a qualified law enforcement/military user to employ these rounds in a tactical situation.
I do not recommend 37/40mm launchers to average citizens without extensive firearms knowledge and experience. Common 37mm launcher rounds that would be useful and easily available are distraction pyrotechnic rounds that can deliver flashbang effects into a crowd from a safe standoff distance.
Usage of surplus plastic bullet ammunition is not recommended. “Rubber bullets” have a negative connotation and these cartridges are intended for usage in training, not as anti-personnel weapons. The velocity of these bullets can cause serious injury or death. Usage of a regular, unmodified firearm firing at people, even with plastic bullets, may cause confusion as to what is going on, potentially creating a more dangerous situation than before.
 
12 gauge less-lethal shotguns and shells 
For the average citizen defender, 12 gauge shotguns and less-lethal shells will be the most common impact munitions available. Construction is usually of a durable, yet sturdy material such as rubber, plastics (Zytel or Nylon), or Kevlar and lead bean bags.

There is a wide variety of shells available, including non-impact distraction type shells, as well as the legion of individual shotgun models than can be adapted for a less-lethal mission. Shotguns are near the top end of the less-lethal distance spectrum (versus Tasers and OC/pepper spray) with a maximum range of about 40 yards, depending on ammunition type.
Weapons specially designated for less-lethal employment should be equipped with bright orange furniture to provide a visual signal to both user and potential targets that the weapon is not being employed as a lethal weapon. Note that less-lethal shotguns have no permanent modifications to prevent loading of lethal ammo, so color and ammo segregation is important.

LAPD uses unique green (almost teal) stocks for its less-lethal shotguns, however, orange shotgun furniture is more common. Orange is also universally recognized as a warning color and more easily understood as a less-lethal platform than other colors. Green in particular can be confused for “zombie green” that was a fad in years past, a custom paintjob, or even a toy gun. Note the barrels remain unpainted in black as they are still potentially lethal and legally firearms.
 
Weapon choice 
Note that most less-lethal 12 gauge rounds do not create enough velocity to reliability cycle semi-automatic shotguns. Less-lethal shells should not be used in semi-autos and preferably only in pump action shotguns.

I am familiar with 14” smoothbore barrel Remington 870s equipped with a sidesaddle. The length was adequate from what I could tell and handy in tight quarters. Ultimately, I think the decision to go with this length had more to do with the fact it fit easily in the Crown Victoria trunk rack more than anything else.

LAPD uses Remington 870s with rifled barrels (18 ½” long & 1-35” twist) firing CTS Model LAPD 2588, also known as the “Super-Sock” bean bag. This is a cloth tail stabilized bean bag round. These are firearms dedicated to a single ammunition type; do not attempt to use other ammunition types (shot or slugs) in rifled barrels unless the ammo manufacturer specifically approves rifled barrels. It is worth noting that bean bags can be used in smoothbore barrels or even with paradox rifling.

Longer barrels are most optimal for proper projectile and shell separation as well as accuracy. Effective deployment on-target may be dependent on velocity and rifling-imparted spin depending on the exact product used. Barrel length does seem to dramatically affect accuracy at ranges of 10-50 feet. Even 10” barrels will perform adequately at under 50 feet, but 18” have been shown to be the most accurate at all ranges and up to 80 feet. 14” may be an optimal compromise up to 50 feet, after which its performance falls off substantially.[2]

18” seems to be fairly standard but short-barreled shotguns (SBS) are also common within law enforcement. The National Firearms Act (NFA) complicates citizen procurement of SBSs. Mossberg Shockwave type weapons (essentially a 14” shoulder stock-less shotgun) can be used and equipped with standard Mossberg accessories (legality may change depending on what you put on). As of this writing, Shockwave type weapons are not NFA regulated and legal in many states.

            Ordinary shotguns can be repurposed to less-lethal duties. This would typically involve replacing the furniture with orange furniture or using labels, stenciling, and orange tape to indicate the weapon is to be employed as a less-lethal weapon. Smoothbore single and double barrel break-open shotguns can also be cheaply repurposed to less-lethal. If at all possible, lethal and non-lethal ammunition should not be mixed or used in the same weapon. Less-lethal shells should only be used in less-lethal only shotguns and vise versa.
 
Ammunition characteristics 
            Less-lethal shotgun ammunition comes in three main forms: rubber or plastic slugs, bean bags, or rubber/plastic shot (or pellets). Some variations exist, such as single or double balls or plastic “stars” that resemble a child’s squishy Koosh ball. Accuracy in decreasing order is rubber/plastic slugs > bean bags > rubber/plastic shot.

Some manufacturers make shells that are intended specifically for use against animals (bears) that are not suitable for use on humans. Civilian marketed ammo is typically intended for wildlife control and not for anti-personnel use. Ammunition for this purpose may have higher velocities to give extra engagement distance and provide more terminal force on thick hides. No one wants to get close to a bear. These differences in “formulation” may prove lethal or extra injurious to a human.

Note: if employing less-lethal ammunition in a shotgun, do not attempt to mix less-lethal and lethal rounds in the same weapon. Keep the two separate and not even on the same person. Shotgun proponents tout their versatility but mixing less-lethal shells with buckshot or slugs is a recipe for a tragic, fatal mistake.

Minimum recommended engagement range is 10 feet, though they can be fired at 5 feet to 45 yards (or more, if the particular shell has the range). Optimal ranges for a balance of safety and terminal effectiveness is 7-25 yards. There is no minimum distance, though very close distances may produce more serious injuries or risk a greater chance of death.

A majority of less-lethal engagements take place within at vary close range, often within 7 yards (during police engagements). Multiple rounds may need to be fired to be effective, as the projectiles may not impact properly or the target may be pain tolerant. Most engagements are resolved with less than three shots fired and a little less than half require just one shot.[3]

Effectiveness of the munition will depend on more than just the type of projectile used. If the target is wearing thick clothing, padding, or body armor the impact will be absorbed by those items. Fit, muscular persons and fat, flabby people will react differently than an average person. Someone who is under the influence may not react as desired. On the other hand, the psychological effect of being “shot” may do wonders to someone who isn’t prepared for a less-lethal hit.
 
Bean bags 
            Bean bags are so named because they are a ballistic fiber pouch filled with pellets of (usually) lead. This is the most common 12 gauge less-lethal round used by American law enforcement. Bean bags generally won’t break vehicle windows that have been tinted or windshields, although they may break standard building glass without special laminating films. 
Bean bags come in square “pads” or “sock” versions. Most projectiles now are in “sock” configuration and will appear as a round, bulbous tear-drop shape. They may or may not be drag stabilized with a tail of material behind them. Modern “sock” designs do not require a minimum distance to unfold or stabilize.

With traditional bean bags (square or rectangular “flat” profiles) or “pads,” these are coiled into cylinders to fit the shotgun shell. They then are supposed to expand to a bag shape in flight. Yaw in flight is responsible for their profile on impacting the target, meaning that they can fail to hit with the proper square profile for optimal affect. A narrower profile can also increase the chance of penetration, serious injury, and death.
            Studies have shown that rifled barrels provided nearly 100% proper deployment of the bag. Smoothbore barrels only had about 20% effectiveness. The centrifugal force spin imparted by the rifling is responsible for the bag opening properly. Accuracy at 40 feet was approximately 7” inch groups.[4] Another test found 3.8" drop and a spread of 5.5" inches.[5]
Manufacturer instructions and warnings should be closely adhered to. Note that many manufacturers of civilian marketed less-lethal shells are often smaller shops that may not have the reliability of large ammo makers or law enforcement oriented manufacturers. Do not mix various types of less-lethal ammunition in a shotgun (or lethal shells either).
 
Slugs and single hard projectiles 
Rubber or plastic slugs are typically in an exaggerated rocket ship shape with a fat front end and a molded tailfin section. Some of these projectiles can have a cavity containing a chemical irritant but civilian rounds most commonly are solid, intended for pain compliance. Cavity rounds are typically not sold to the general public.

Rubber or plastic rounds (slugs or shot) are often made from rubber, PVC, or other plastics. Hardness may vary. Low temperatures can cause the rubber or plastic material to harden. Fiocchi hourglass shaped rubber baton rounds have been reported to work well at below freezing temperatures without causing significant injuries to bears.[6]

Rubber slugs tend to deliver the most terminal energy to targets due to their weight and construction. Such solid rubber or plastic rounds are typically designed not to deform on impact. These stand a greater chance of penetration than other projectile types but will give the most range. Large rubber balls, often singly or doubly loaded into shells, have a more aerodynamic shape than slugs and retain velocity better than other types of projectiles.

Star shaped rounds are low mass and impact at high velocity. Upon impact, the material compresses and transfer its energy into the target. One manufacturer advertises that it imparts its available energy across a larger surface area than other projectile types. They claim that the star causes less injury that other types.[7]
 
Rubber/plastic shot 
            Rubber shot can be employed as lead buckshot would be (preferably aimed away from the face and other vital areas) or fired at the pavement or another surface to skip the pellets into the target’s legs. Shot can be also used against groups as the individual projectiles will disperse in flight. Due to its dispersal characteristics, use against crowds or closely clustered individuals is an ideal usage.

When used against a human, the spread of the projectiles is used to provide more pain over a wider area than a bean bag or slug. However, the impact area size is dependent on the spread of the shot in flight, which is less at close distance and larger at long distance. And while the area that hurts may be larger in size, the overall pain and any associated “stunning” effect may be less due to lesser terminal velocity delivered as a function of the shot’s lower mass.
            Anecdotal reports show that less-lethal shot exhibits extreme spread, perhaps up to several feet. At close range, the spread seems to be enough to cause many hits to a torso sized target. Rubber shot should be patterned on a paper target from the intended shotgun prior to contingency usage.
 
Rock salt and bird shot           
Rock salt has a very low mass, so the muzzle velocity will be high, but it will also loose velocity quickly and have little to impart to the target. Videos of firing shows that it often creates a large white cloud. Effective range is believed to be 20-50 feet. Firing at closer ranges may cause serious injury.

Rock salt at close distance will typically penetrate ordinary clothing. Penetration into flesh is likely to occur. Tests have found ¼ inch penetration into ballistic gel of large crystals after going through clothing and up to 1 and ½ inches in bare gelatin.[8] Anecdotal reports indicate that skin typically stops any deep penetration of crystals into subcutaneous tissue.
Close employment (room distance) will cause more serious injuries. Rock salt also comes with more risk that chunks will hit the eyes or other sensitive body part, causing serious injury.

Birdshot should never be used as less-lethal ammunition because it can be quite lethal at near ranges. Should it be employed without an intent to kill, it must only be done as a last resort when there is no rule of law and circumstances dictate that if death were to occur, it would be morally and tactically justifiable. Employment of birdshot in such a role will not be discussed here.
 
When to use? 
            A friend who recently retired from law enforcement and I were discussing the pros and cons of less-lethal shotgun usage by the average citizen. In defensive situations, outside of very rare one-offs that are unlikely to occur, we couldn’t think of a single good example. Where it would be useful always required that the SHTF already, things were very dangerous outside, and there was no rule of law (or police). Then, and only in stand-off type situations, did we deem their usage conceivable.
            Normal times or SHTF times, you are likely not going to be dealing with suicidal subjects or with persons resisting arrest. You will be concerned with shooting bad guys or driving them off. A less-lethal shotgun is in the “drive them off” tool box. If you are planning for SHTF and especially if you have a defensive group drawn up for your neighborhood or homestead, why not put another tool in your toolbox?
            I am going to focus my scenarios on a without the rule of law situation (WROL), that is, there are no police to respond and no courts to prosecute you. If there are, they are totally ineffective to help you, deter the bad guys, or come after you for using excessive force. Wider use of less-lethal ammunition may be made where it is necessary or desirable to kinetically dissuade someone but not kill them. Further discussion regarding WROL employment of less-lethal weapons can be found in my book Suburban Defense.

In WROL, less-lethal shotguns should only be employed when a lethal shot would be justified. This covers any potential legal ground as well as moral grounds. Because the weapons are still firearms and may kill, you need to treat firing a less-lethal shot just as firing a lead one.
There may be a rare circumstance when killing the person is legally justifiable, but not desirable, and it is tactically permissible to use less-lethal force. Lethal cover (another person with a deadly firearm aimed at the target) must be present and ready to stop any deadly threat. Typically, in ordinary life less-lethal ammo usage should be avoided.
            Less-lethal force is not a substitute for lethal force, when morally and legally justified. I envision it being used when the attitudes of your homestead, neighborhood, or community may make it difficult to outright shoot someone. Mowing down a crowd of rioters, even if they deserve it, presents a lot of problems. You may also feel bad shooting a really determined and desperate father stealing from your garden. If a 12 gauge rubber slug can send them away and keep them away, it helps avoid you being labeled a murderer or war criminal.
 
Violent crowd control

• Single projectiles (slugs, bean bags) against individual point targets, i.e. a specific person who poses as a threat, like an instigator.
• Rubber/plastic shot against the crowd itself or multiple individuals closely clustered together.
• Any projectile can be used indiscriminately in final protective fire (or FPF—shoot everything) to prevent being overrun or in an extreme contingency.

Non-immediate threats

• A deranged person or someone who is holding a weapon at the ready (slung/holstered gun, a sharp object far away) that needs to be disarmed and kinetically dissuaded, but shooting them is not preferable.
• An unarmed (or possibly armed) trespasser who refuses to leave.
• An aggressor who continues to approach.
• Someone who is trying to get through/around defenses.
• As a humane warning shot to a desperate person before lethal force is used.

 
Deployment 
The less-lethal bearer should not have a lethal firearm at the ready; lethal weapons need to be holstered or slung out of the way. He should not be trying to juggle an AR-15 and a less-lethal shotgun. If at all possible, the less-lethal bearer should not also be armed with a lethal shotgun, nor should he have any lethal shotgun shells on his person, to avoid mix-ups.

“Less-lethal ready/up!” is the announcement the less-lethal bearer is in position and ready to fire.
“Less-lethal, standby!” is the incident commander or primary team member delegating the authority to fire. It also serves as a warning to those around that a less-lethal weapon will be fired.
“Less-lethal out,” should be yelled and/or radioed after the shot or string of shots so distant team members know what happened.

Other variations can be used as long as they are clear and unambiguous. Additionally, the type of less-lethal ammunition can be substituted for specificity, i.e. “bean bag.” Note that circumstances may necessitate immediate deployment based on the less-lethal bearer’s observations of the situation. Good communication should be maintained with the details for the need of the weapon going out so that upon hearing a gun shot, distant team members don’t mistake it for an incoming shot.

• Ensure lethal cover is present and ready in case lethal force is needed.
• Take into consideration the clothing, equipment, and build of the target, as well as their position, their actions, and any persons in close proximity to them.
• Utilize cover and concealment as you would engaging with a lethal weapon.
• Maintain a minimum stand-off distance from the target and any other hostiles to prevent the barrel from being grabbed. Minimum recommended engagement range is 10 feet.
• Each shot should be assessed individually as to its effectiveness. This may be a split second judgement based on what is observed through the sight picture.
• Psychological effectiveness of the projectile may be heightened by simultaneous use of pyrotechnics or distraction devices.
• Expended projectiles and empty shells should be collected.
• As these are low power rounds, there is a non-zero chance of projectiles becoming lodged in the barrel after multiple shots. Barrels should be inspected and cleaned as part of the after-action process.
• Do not attempt to reload and reuse expended projectiles.

 
Aimpoint: lower center of torso (belly) or more specifically the belt line to the navel.
Aim for large muscle groups, abdomen and below. Arms and legs should be avoided when in proximity to vital areas. The preferred dorsal target area is the legs (away from the lower spine).
Avoid: head, neck, sternum (upper chest), spine, kidneys, and genitals. When firing at the target from behind, do not aim for the center of the back due to the risk of spinal cord damage. Firing at bare skin should be avoided when possible.
Do not fire at pregnant women, young women, or the elderly if at all possible.
Do not fire a target who may fall from height or into dangerous areas.
 
Minimum safe range: 5 feet
Minimum recommended range: 10 feet
Optimal safe minimum range: 21 feet
Maximum recommended range: 50 feet
Optimal engagement distances: 7-25 yards
Average maximum range: 40 yards

• Self-defense and justifiable homicide laws should be obeyed as much as possible.
• Force should be proportionate to the threat and used sparingly as a last resort.
• Aimed weapons should be used directly against specific persons who are engaged in actions that pose an immediate threat of death or serious injury.
  • In WROL, this could be expanded to agitators and serious property damage. In this case, the danger posed may be more theoretical than immediate.
• Less-lethal rounds can be used judiciously to discourage certain individuals from crossing barricades or engaging in actions that may escalate the risk of death or injury.
• Firearms used indiscriminately should only be used against crowds as a last resort to disperse mobs, stop rushes, or against concentrations of rioters who are presenting the greatest threat.
• Do not put yourself or other “good guys” at undue risk trying to employ less-lethal rounds.

 
Conclusion 
Now in ordinary life you’re probably never going to use less-lethal ammunition against a human. I would recommend against it, actually. If you’re going to shoot them, make sure you can legally use lethal force and preferably use lead to make sure the threat is stopped. If you aren’t going to shoot them, it’s easier and less legally risky to punch them, shoot them with a Taser, or give them a face full of OC spray. But then again, the Second Amendment was written for those outside contingencies.
            Disclaimer: I am not an attorney nor an expert. This should not be taken as legal or expert advice. Get specialized training before using less-lethal ammunition and any action taken is at your own risk. You probably shouldn’t be using this kind of ammo against humans unless the world has really ended.


[1] I personally saw a man, high on meth, shot with a bean bag round die from excited delirium. He was already in an excited state as he refused commands while attempting to hack through a windshield with a metal traffic barricade. This kind of death is not uncommon among drug addicts and is not limited to any one particular less-lethal weapon.

[2] Charlie Mesloh et al., "Modular 12 Gauge Shotgun Beanbag Accuracy Study," Journal of Testing and Evaluation, Vol. 36, No. 5, 2008.

[3] Chris Sciba, San Jose Police Department, "Projectile Impact Weapons," (undated).

[4] LAPD study data from: Doreen Hudson, "A Flexible and Effective Beanbag Platform," LAPD, undated PowerPoint presentation, https://aele.org/lapd-beanbag.pdf.

[5] Ibid. Mesloh.

[6] Polar Bear Deterrent - Training Manual, Instructor Guidelines, Module 4, US Fish and Wildlife Service, undated.

[7] Lightfield Ammunition product advertisements.

[8] “Seasonings Greeting: Testing Rock Salt Shotgun Shells”, https://www.ammoman.com/blog/rock-salt-shotgun-shells/

Note: this an adaptation of an except from my non-fiction book Suburban Defense: A cop’s guide to protecting your home and neighborhood during riots, civil war, or SHTF.
 
A lot of us have given thought to independent operations, small-unit tactics, and guerilla warfare. One area I seem to notice that has been left out of discussion is riot/crowd control. 2020 was the year of the mass riot that made its way into residential neighborhoods. We saw ad hoc groups spring up in defense, but just standing around openly carrying isn’t always going to turn the tide. Bad guys will call your bluff and suburbanites to rural defenders need to consider proper riot/crowd control techniques and equipment.
 
Goals of your anti-riot/anti-mob efforts 
            Your goals in any effort to keep riots or mobs from causing havoc in your neighborhood or on your street should be:

• Deter any acts of destruction, violence, or demonstrations in your neighborhood;
• Restrict, delay, or prevent entry to the street or neighborhood by troublemakers;
• Prevent damage to property or injury/death to your neighbors;
• Stop attacks against personal property or violence towards persons; and,
• Disperse mobs from your neighborhood to end the danger they are causing.

• It should never be to take revenge, cause harm to a group you don’t like, or for personal gain.

 
Crowd control measures 
            Crowd control (versus riot suppression) is limiting the growth of the crowd, controlling its geographical spread, and dissolving it. These three means are isolation, show of force, and dispersal. Arrests are not included as you will not be making them since you have no where to “drag” arrestees to (see dispersal). Dealing with the crowd (making the bad people go away) comes before using force (riot suppression) on violent/destructive mobs.
 
Isolation 
            Isolating a crowd will be difficult for a small team to do. The goal is to prevent new additions from joining the group to stop or slow its growth. This can be done by creating physical barriers or having a second team isolate newcomers from the main body. This can be risky for the defenders as rioters may react when boxed into a corner. If possible, leave a route for them to escape from where it is unlikely reinforcements would enter from.
 
Show of force 
            A show of force is essentially a warning and a threat that destruction and violence will be met with force (not necessarily kinetic). Crowds may be deterred from their propensity to become rowdy if they are faced with a large number of opponents who may use force. We have seen plenty of instances (discussed elsewhere) where open carry groups have caused rioters, protesters, and looters to pass by simply by standing ready.
            Place armed people at your perimeter; this is to intimidate the crowd and ideally deter them from choosing your neighborhood. Hopefully their “protest” continues by or they stand a good way off jeering at you until they are tired or bored.
            However, one should never assume a show of force alone will be effective. Individual antagonists and the group itself may be willing to escalate. They may have their own ability to react violently to a use of force, which we have seen to some extent already (particularly in the Portland area). You must be prepared to back up your exhibition with actual and sufficient force to halt any resistance.
            In the civilian’s case, a small number of armed defenders and limited barricades may be enough to persuade a gun-shy mob to pass by. They may not be seeking any real trouble. Others may seek undefended targets. Whatever the case, be prepared to react and do not bluff. Much of a show of force for civilians is a gamble. The fallback is not arrests and dispersal like police, it is using force or taking shelter until the attack passes. Nonetheless, in many cases involving less-aggressive groups, a show of force may be entirely effective.
 
Dispersal 
Dispersal (without force) is not the best tool in the toolbox of the civilian defender. Rioters are removed from the scene by police through two methods: drive and drag. Dragging them away means that they are arrested, handed over to the booking team, and transported to jail, thus removing them from the area.
Driving them away involves the suggestion or the actual use of force to get people to leave. This can be physically encroaching on the crowd so they feel uncomfortable and move away, hopefully dispersing entirely. Or it can be by application of force to dispel a crowd to make them run away out of fear of being subjected to the pain of riot control weapons.
            Civilians will rarely have the numbers to effectively move rioters away. Leaving one’s defensive perimeter and pushing a crowd away is dangerous. Should you need to use a human formation to push rioters away, attempt to do so by moving your defenses outward. A heavy barricade can be lifted and pushed outward into the crowd, forcing them back, while the defenders stay behind the moving barricade.
Alternatively, vehicles can approach in a line abreast and drive at the crowd, but armed defenders have to be able to stop anyone attacking the cars or trying to sneak through. This is far more dangerous to the driver, the crowd, and for liability reasons (a vehicle vs. pedestrian collision).
Dispersal orders and warnings should be given. Make multiple warnings from as close to the crowd as possible and in multiple locations if necessary. Use a megaphone to ensure everyone hears the order in a noisy environment. Do not bluff. There is no need to read “the riot act” or say something specific, but I would make it clear that this order is to be obeyed immediately and force will be used to disperse the crowd if it is ignored.
Keep your distance from mobs. Never wade into the crowd or let them mingle among you if you can at all help it. Physical barriers help maintain this distance. Don’t let rioters get behind you or your group or between members of your group. We’ve seen too many images of someone trying to plead or negotiate with rioters only to be bushwhacked from behind and killed.
 
Tips

• Order the crowd to disperse;
• Always try to leave as much open and defensible space between you and the crowd (such as behind a barricade);
• Allow the crowd clear avenues of escape or retreat;
• Try to focus the crowd into an area that benefits your defense most or is an otherwise open, unobstructed area;
• Allow the crowd to disperse down its escape route;
• Remain behind a barricade, do not let rioters get in between your individual defenders;
• Always protect your rear and sides from rioters attempting to attack from your flank; and,
• If the situation devolves into violence, escalate to using force as appropriate.

 
Rescues 
            Should a member of your defensive team or a non-defender neighbor be surrounded or attacked by the mob, an immediate rescue has to be mounted to limit the chance the mob has to inflict injury on that person. Depending on the precariousness of the situation, this could be serious injury, death, kidnapping, or rape.

• Be assertive and aggressive, force your way in hard and fast;
• Keep your weapons secure against snatching;
• A minimum of four people is ideal, two to lift and drag and two others to shield/shove/fight, although six—two fighters, shielders/shovers, and draggers each—is better;
• Attention has to be paid to a 360° area around the team at all times;
• Push the crowd away with shields, body or weapon strikes, or even bayonets if justified;
• Use of shields to protect from thrown objects or blows of impact weapons may be necessary, especially when stooping to lift a fallen friendly;
• Use distraction devices or area pain compliance weapons to create an opening and/or get the attackers off the victim;
• The people behind the defensive line should cover the advance and retreat while the fighters should cover the retreat from within the crowd; and,
• Remember your use of force could potentially injure the victim.

 
Avoid 
            Avoid engaging in verbal altercations. Yelling insults or waving political flags or signs won’t help. Be quiet, be impassive. The only communication with the crowd should be stern, but polite, commands necessary to keep the peace. Remove any loudmouths on your side from contact with the crowd.
Don’t bang on things like cops do with their batons against shields. Ancient people (and remote tribes today) used the rhythm of drums to stir up morale before a battle. It will probably be incendiary rather than intimidating.
 
Non-kinetic riot control 
            Many of the characteristics of a riot can be exploited to break them up before they get out of hand by disrupting the growth process. Unfortunately, politics is such now that protests that start as loud and only blocking traffic serve as a catalyst for worse because police can’t intervene (legally or politically) at that point. This is why early intervention is your best policy. If you can break it up early, you will disrupt the catalyst for the protest to turn into a riot.

• Make a show of force when the crowd is small. Openly carry weapons, outnumber them if possible, use megaphones or other loud noises to your advantage. If you can do so and the legality of the situation permits, disperse them yourself.
• Deny the crowd anonymity with lighting and video cameras. If you can identify people, call them out by name or at least by what they’re wearing, i.e. “I see you with that brick, Mr. Blue UCLA Sweatshirt!”
• Challenge people who don’t belong in the area who commit small wrongs, like walking across a lawn or jumping a fence. Set the tone that they are not welcome and you care about small infractions of neighborhood decency. This also has the effect of showing determination and resolve to someone who might be testing whether or not you are confrontational.

• Deny the area to them using creative means, like sprinklers, intolerable smells, light, etc.

 
Suburban defense continuum 
For the private citizen, in a non-life threatening situation reasonable self-defense force is that which ends the criminal action. Using the standard of reasonableness, this would mean the least amount of force necessary to get the person to stop is used. Therefore, if you are physically able to grab and escort a vandal off your property, that would be far more reasonable than pepper spraying them in the face. Of course, legal standards and laws vary from jurisdiction to jurisdiction.
            I am making suggestions that would be appropriate for a civilian engaging in suburban defense during a time when police will not or cannot control the situation. Note that “aimed weapon” means not just a gun with sights, but any weapon or device, lethal or not, that is targeted against a specific individual.” “Area weapon” is also not a gun (although it could be) but is something that affects a specific area and multiple individuals in that area, such as tear gas would be.
 
Passive measures
 
These aren’t force at all, but things that might keep an interaction from occurring. Such things would be fencing, barricades, and security cameras. The defender doesn’t have to interact with the aggressor at all.
 
Deterrence and warnings
 
Threat: none specific, but the possibility trouble could develop.
This includes non-kinetic forms of crowd and riot control, like setting up barricades, openly carrying weapons, making your presence known to the crowd, and issuing warnings. Your goal with this method is to make anyone who does not want trouble to pass by and those who do want trouble to think twice and remain peaceful.
Shows of force will probably be the best tactic in times of a functioning legal system as it is hard to screw up and do something illegal just standing there. A lot of potential troublemakers expecting no resistance will be headed off if they know they will face resistance.
 
Defensive physical force
 
Threat: small-scale criminal acts occurring or the threat of escalation to greater crimes.
Physical contact with a mob should be avoided unless no other option exists. Using physical defensive force would be with your body to stop a crowd from crossing your defensive line, entering your yard, etc. In extreme situations physically dispersing the crowd may be called for. Non-contact forms of less-lethal force to stop criminal acts or interrupt things before they get worse could be used like megaphone sirens, bright lights, laser intimidation (not blinding), or stink bombs.
 
Less-lethal force
 
Threat: someone will sustain less-serious injuries or major property damage.
Anything that could potentially cause injury, but not death, should be placed in this category. This would include airsoft “sting” grenades, paintballs, flashbangs, pyrotechnics, Tasers, fire hoses, etc. In non-WROL situations, this would be to immediately overcome physical force to prevent injury or damage to property in-line with your state’s self-defense laws.
In a WROL situation, less-lethal force could be used to disperse a crowd before it reaches critical mass or to break up an attack.
 
Lethal force
 
Threat: someone will be killed or seriously wounded if you do not neutralize the aggressor immediately.
            Use of firearms will be the most likely threat and the reciprocal use of force in this category. Remember, lethal force is typically permitted in most places to stop an imminent fatal or serious injury, something horrific like rape or kidnapping, or forced entry to a home. This may apply from a lone shooter in a mob to an armed bandit attack on the neighborhood.
 
Lethal and non-lethal force 
Non-lethal

• Make a lot of noise; yell back, deploy flashbang grenades, firecrackers, etc.
• Cause pain/discomfort; throw airsoft pellet grenades, spray them with pepper spray, shoot them with paintballs or airsoft pellets, turn on your fire hose.
• Use light; blind them with spotlights, turn on disorienting strobe lights on your flashlights or weapon lights, or use fireworks (if you must).

 
Intermediate less-lethal

• If this is a WROL situation or lethal force is justified, using shotguns to fire less-lethal projectiles like rubber slugs or shot and bean bags.
• Shotguns are lethal weapons and less-than-lethal rounds have been known to kill.
• Aiming guns as a bluff (not their mere presence) is not recommended if you can’t legally shoot someone.

 
Lethal

• Use all of the above methods, particularly flashbangs and pyrotechnics that make a lot of explosion sounds in combination with gunfire.
• Mixing in less-lethal with lethal force amplifies the effects of gunfire. Example: a bad guy who hears gun shots, gets hit by a paintball and feels the wetness of the paint might run away and not stop to check to see that it is not blood.
• Try and take aimed, accurate shots at close and imminent threats if possible rather than shooting into the crowd en masse.
• In a WROL overrun situation, fire rapidly at the front row of the crowd to knock down as many as possible to stop their momentum.
• An old tactic is to skip buckshot (or birdshot) off pavement and into the legs of a crowd by firing at the ground a few feet in front of the people. Israeli troops used Ruger 10/22 rifles to fire .22 LR bullets into the lower legs of rioters. Both of these methods are lethal force because both the weapon and the ammunition are lethal. Projectiles can ricochet to cause lethal injuries and the legs also contain major arteries that if severed can lead to death.

 
When do you use force on members of a mob (lethal or non-lethal)?

• In a direct response to a use of force against you or the imminent, threatened use of force.
• On any attempt to break into a house or set it on fire.
• If the crowd attempts to break through a hard barricade to commit acts of violence or major destruction against the neighborhood.
• Indiscriminate fire should only be used as a last resort when the entire mob is likely to overrun you and most defenders are going to engage in life-threatening violence.

 
Considerations 
Before using force, consider the following:

• Is the crowd mostly peaceful and behaving? Can you legally use force to stop what they are doing, even non-lethal force?
• Is the crowd tending towards personal violence or just property destruction and what is the likelihood that they will retaliate if you use force?
• Will the wind blow pepper spray or smoke back in your team’s face (back across your “release line”)?

Using force may not be the proper thing to do at that moment given the circumstances. One type of force may be better to use than another. This is not a decision to make reflexively or take lightly.
 
Best practices
Self-defense and justifiable homicide laws should be obeyed as much as possible.

• Force should be proportionate to the threat and used sparingly as a last resort.
• Aimed weapons should be used directly against specific persons who are engaged in actions that pose an immediate threat of death or serious injury.
  • In WROL, this could be expanded to agitators and serious property damage.
• Aimed weapons (lethal or not) can be used judiciously to discourage certain individuals from crossing barricades or engaging in actions that may escalate the risk of death or injury.
• Firearms used indiscriminately should only be used against crowds as a last resort.
• Area weapons should be used to disperse crowds, stop rushes against barricades, defenders, and victims, or in concentrations of rioters who are presenting the greatest threat.

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